Why travel?

 Nov 16, 2019

            

Jean, Lew and Regina

 

 Our first stop after leaving D.C. was Richmond, VA, where we parked the RV in our friend’s driveway. Instead of rushing from museum to museum, we were happy to be able to sit back and talk with our friends (three different ones, as it turns out, over the span of four days). In our conversations with The Rev. Jean Pupke (where we stayed), she asked us some penetrating questions, one of which precipitated this blog post. Why do we travel? Is it to see other cultures, experience new places, see friends, be challenged, be amazed? She asked this about an upcoming trip to New Zealand/Australia, but it got me thinking about THIS trip. Why are we spending 19 months in a 33 ft motorhome, never in one place very long, braving the elements, enduring the inconveniences? Why, indeed?! I can think of six good reasons:

TIMING

Going full time in our RV has long been a dream of ours and in 2018, the stars aligned. My mother had died in 2016, so I was no longer her caregiver. Sandi and her family were leaving in June on what was to be a 4-year sailing adventure, to Mexico for 18 months and then on to Polynesia, New Zealand, and Australia. I was no longer needed on that front either. Alas, there was nothing holding us in Anacortes; the timing was good, our health was good (well, except for Lew’s prostate cancer surgery 10 days before we were scheduled to leave), we were still young enough to hike and manage the rigors of travel, and the country was calling. Do we need other reasons to travel?

FRIENDS

Yes!  Friends, relatives, and acquaintances were also calling. We wanted to see people we never, or almost never, got to see. This part of the adventure has been particularly satisfying. All in all, we have visited with people in 25 different locations throughout the country (and even in Mexico and Canada!) Sometimes our stays have been long: 3 weeks in the St. Louis area this spring with Lew’s best friend from college (and our best friends for years) (and seeing them this Thanksgiving on our way back west); 2 months in and out of my brother’s house in New Hampshire this summer/fall; 

Lew, Bonnie, Serafin and Mike in Wilton, NH

 1 week at an old high school friend’s home in Wisconsin; 1 week in Tucson to spend time with my old tennis partner from Panama City, FL days; and 4 1/2 weeks in Salt Lake City to be near daughter, Erin, and her family last November and another 5-6 weeks this winter over Christmas. It was especially nice to be able to spend more time with Erin since it is harder now that we have moved to Washington.

 Some visits were brief, but meaningful – like spending time with two college acquaintances in Connecticut – folks I had reconnected with at my 50^th reunion in May – whom I now feel closer to than I ever did in college, thanks to 3 wonderful days together this fall.

Doug, Julia and us in Connecticut

Reuniting with Karen and Harvey Joyner

Or how strange was it to run into a friend and past UU minister from our days in Colorado while attending a service at the UU Church in Richmond, VA? What a gift to see Harvey and Karen after what must have been at least 15 years and to spend a few hours contemplating the trajectory of our lives since we last connected.








Or the afternoon we spent in St. George, UT with one of my mom’s last surviving friends from Junior High, driving out to see one of her beloved red rock parks and treating her to lunch out. For me, it was an important connection to my past.

We have stopped to see folks we haven’t seen in 30-40 years and people we’ve met along a trail and have barely known. We’ve visited with friends from elementary, Jr and Sr High school, with relatives in Portland, Arizona, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Utah, New Hampshire, and Virginia, and with people from Colorado Springs who hold a special place in our hearts. Yes, visiting people, connecting, re-connecting has been a very important reason for this trip.  The museums and sights we see are great, but it’s the people that make it all worthwhile.

PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARIES

                One goal we set for ourselves was to visit the rest of the Presidential libraries (we’d already seen the Truman, Eisenhower, Kennedy, Carter and Clinton museums). For us it has been an opportunity to learn more about the times in which they served, more about the character of the man himself, and to assess or reassess the nature of that Presidency. With only the Hoover and Reagan libraries left on the agenda for the remainder of this trip, we have definitely fulfilled this objective. We have seen the LBJ, Bush and Bush libraries/museums in Texas, the Lincoln museum in Illinois, FDR’s library in New York, Ford’s in Michigan, and Nixon’s in California. And, though officially not “Presidential Libraries” we have seen museums dedicated to the presidencies of Garfield and Wilson. We walked away from all these libraries with (often) unexpected respect for the individual and what he was trying to accomplish in his presidency (even when we disagreed with his politics). These visits have served as great history lessons.

NATIONAL PARKS

Another goal of ours has been to visit as many National Parks as we can – hoping to see those we’d missed in the past, especially those in the "other half" of the country! By National Parks, I had in mind places like Yosemite, Yellowstone, Glacier, Grand Tetons – areas of pristine beauty, wilderness, serenity, peace. And we have gone to those – Big Bend NP in Texas, for instance, Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota, or Death Valley NP in California. All beautiful in their grandeur and vastness, with miles of hiking trails and opportunities to breathe deeply. Others, like the Redwoods, just take your breath away.

What we weren’t as prepared for were the “other” national parks – the ones in the middle of Urban corridors, the historic parks that celebrate something other than nature, the ones that give us a glimpse into our history (and, thus, into ourselves). These, too, are administered by the National Park Service.  The NPS has preserved pieces of history and culture: persons, events and activities that show us who we were and who we are. There are so many National Historic Parks, so much to learn about, absorb, and appreciate. We’ve barely begun that process in visiting the following: Lowell, MA (the beginning of the Industrial Revolution in America), the Shenandoah Valley, Chaco Canyon, the Cuyahoga Valley, the Dayton Aviation Heritage Park, Harper’s Ferry, Lewis and Clark, Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller, New Bedford Whaling, Gettysburg, Women’s Rights, Eleanor Roosevelt, First Ladies, Fort Ticonderoga, Golden Spike, Knife River Indian Villages, Saint-Gauden’s, and the Booker T Washington National Historic Park.

There are also many National Monuments which celebrate places of national significance – including outstanding geologic features, seashores, and places of historic importance. We have visited only a few: Aztec Ruins, Canyon De Chelly, Casa Grande, Chiracahua, Fort Union, Grand Portage, White Sands, Coronado. 

We are so thankful that so many people had the foresight to see the need for these places and events to be preserved and maintained for all Americans to enjoy, learn from, and appreciate. It is to their hard work and perseverance that we owe our gratitude. Which leads me to the next reason for taking this trip…

HISTORY LESSONS                                                                 

            We wanted a hands-on history lesson – we’ve certainly gotten more than we bargained for and we’ve barely scratched the surface! Everywhere you turn as you drive through the country there’s some interesting history to discover. Small towns, big cities – they all have their local heroes, their disasters and triumphs, their ups and downs. Traveling across the country you can drink it all in – or choose what you drink because there is just too much! Some history resonates with us more strongly, some challenges us, some disgusts us. Much of it makes us think: about who we are, what is important,  the role that luck plays in history, the meaning of progress, poverty in a rich nation, man’s inhumanity to man, rights (and wrongs), and so many other unanswered questions. All of it, all the history of this country, is part of us today – Native American history, the American revolution, the industrial revolution, westward expansion, slavery, civil war, world wars, civil rights protests, presidential successes and failures – it is all a part of us, of what makes this country (and by extension, you and me) what it is today.

We will need some time to digest all we’ve seen and read about and heard on this trip. For me, it’s the stories of real people who have made history come alive. It has become personal. How lucky we’ve been to have soaked up just a tiny bit of that history on our travels.

TO SEE THE COUNTRY

So this brings me to my 6^th, and final, reason for wanting to take this trip. We wanted to see the country. We’ve lived and traveled in Europe, we’ve seen some parts of the United States, but we hungered for more. We live in an amazing country, geographically diverse, religiously diverse, ethnically diverse, politically diverse, and, yet, the whole is much greater than the sum of its parts. I have particularly enjoyed seeing the Midwest – those fly-over states to which we on the coasts pay little attention. Although I love where we live, I can readily see why people like living in Iowa, or Wisconsin, or Michigan, or Missouri. All the states we have visited have their own beauty – not the same as what I’m used to, but beautiful, nonetheless. I see why people rave about the Blue Ridge Mountains and Shenandoah Valley, how someone can love the hustle and bustle of a big city or the serenity of New England. I have especially appreciated the fact that wineries can now be found in all 50 states – and some of it, from places you never would have expected, is quite good! I’ve loved tasting maple syrup in Vermont and apple butter in Pennsylvania.

Each state, each experience, has given us a new and different perspective on our lives and on what it is like in other parts of the country. Every state is different and it’s that difference that makes it so interesting and has made this trip so fulfilling. If the ultimate goal of travel is to be changed – then this trip has been a great success. Our understanding about so much has increased; our perspectives have grown and changed; our appreciation has expanded; and our gratitude overflows. As Mark Twain said, "Travel is fatal to Prejudice."

Billings-March-Rockefeller National Historic Park

Lew's Addendum

Lew’s addendum to Bonnie's post:

Bonnie mentioned that we watched the changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.  That was impressive, but the laying of wreaths at the tomb was more intricate and definitely impressive.

However, as we prepared to leave the cemetery, we asked directions of a uniformed attendant.  He asked, in a slightly accented voice, if I was a veteran.  When I said, “Yes” he thanked me for my service and said that he was grateful for the US military who had made it possible for the United States to become the great country that it is.  He said that the US is the only country, with the possible exception of his native Belize, where he would consider living.  The attendant came to this country as part of the Belize foreign service and quickly grew to love this country.  He mentioned that he had retired for the foreign service and didn’t need a job, but worked as an attendant at the National Cemetery specifically to talk with and thank US veterans for their service.  His goal is to thank 5,000 veterans and estimates that he has already personally thanked 3,500.

Wow!  I didn’t know how to respond.  I was partly embarrassed, partly grateful for having been thanked for something I’d done (yes, even the very small part that I had played), and acknowledging that the US military had played an important part in making our country what it is today.  Yes, my mind flashed through some of the great military accomplishments and some of the parts that were not so great, but his point was well taken.

As we followed his directions to the cemetery exit, I thought that I would have liked to buy that man a cup of coffee and asked him about his experiences.  But neither he nor I, at that point, had time for a cup of coffee.

Breaking the Silence

Well, it’s been two months since I’ve written on my blog and it is time to break the silence. I could say I’ve been too busy (we have) or too lazy (that might be partially true) or uninspired (to write), but the truth is that once the time went on, it was just too overwhelming. So, instead of sharing all the places we’ve been and the things we’ve seen (although I’ll do a little of that), I want to share some impressions I’ve had on this portion of the trip. Since I last wrote, we’ve visited 11 states plus DC, and one foreign country (twice). We’ve reveled in and Civil War history, explored the New England coastline, learned about the making of maple syrup, went “leaf peeping” with a caravan of RVers from around the country, and quietly paid homage to all those who gave their lives in service to the country, at Gettysburg and Arlington. Thoughts on some of our experiences:

CANADA:  Visits to both Montreal and Quebec City were great, and we want to go back and spend more time. What struck us first in Montreal was the architecture – it was like stepping into a town in Europe. We liked that feel as we walked around, marveling at everything we saw and heard, since, of course, people were speaking French, not English.

Montreal - across from our hotel

We were also surprised (but shouldn’t have been ) at how OLD these two cities on the St Lawrence River are. I remember studying about Cartier and Champlain, but the emphasis was always on United States history, so those facts had been lost. In both cities we loved the old town sections, the small winding cobblestone streets, old buildings, and churches.

Friends we met in Montreal.

Old town Quebec City

Quebec City history mural on flat wall!

We particularly liked learning more about New France and its relationship to Britain, and were fascinated with archeological ruins in Montreal. We spent 3 days in each city, but that was not nearly enough. Obviously, another trip east is demanded!

Archeological dig of original site of Montreal

Falls at Quebec City - note stairs down which we didn't take

CAPE COD: We tried to have a relaxing time on Cape Cod – and in some ways we did, a little hiking, a little bike riding, some beach walking. But definitely too much driving. Cape Cod is a lot bigger than it looks, and the roads are slow and plodding.

Rode bikes to Cape Cod lighthouse

Walk on beach at Nature Center on Cape Cod

 Driving out to Provincetown took much longer than expected, especially since we stopped at a few light houses along the way, leaving little time to appreciate the end of the cape itself. A monument to the Pilgrims stands out in Provincetown (they landed there first, before Plymouth); another highlights the signing of the Mayflower Compact (in the Provincetown Harbor) in 1620.

Monument to Pilgrims in Provincetown

 It was after this long drive out and back that I sort of had “one of those moments”. The next day I didn’t want to get out of bed. I was tired of driving, of visiting this and that, of trying to remember everything we’d seen. Cape Cod was supposed to be a relaxing place, but there were people everywhere (and it wasn’t even summer). I needed a day off. Of course, I got over my funk soon enough and we went on to visit more lighthouses, Kennedy’s Hyannis Port, and other points of interest over the next few days, but it was becoming more and more apparent that day after day of touring takes its toll. More and more, lately, I’ve had these moments.

Chatham Lighthouse

Kennedy Museum at Hyannis Port

 But we’ve survived my moods, which, luckily have been interspersed with visiting friends (in Connecticut, which we thoroughly enjoyed), interesting side trips (Yale University in New Haven and Mark Twain’s house, in Hartford), and some relaxing time at state and national parks in Maine.

College friends in Connecticut

Mark Twain's house in Hartford

Twain quote sums up our attitude about travel

CARAVAN: Early on, when we knew our basic itinerary, we had signed up for a Yankee RV Tours Fall Foliage trip. We would travel through New England with a dozen or so other rigs, meet new people, not have to make any decisions about campgrounds and activities, have a number of meals planned and paid for, and, as a bonus, for three weeks, I would have people to talk to! After a few days on our own at Acadia National Park, we met up with the other travelers in Bar Harbor on September 22.

"The Herd" by the falls in Quebec City

First night's dinner!

 All our expectations were met – nice people, some of whom we hope to see again, no thinking, planning, or worrying about where to stay or what to see, incredible fall colors in peak season in Vermont and New Hampshire (cross that off my bucket list), all the things you expect to see in New England, and, for me, the bonus – other people to talk with!!!

Longest Covered bridge between New Hampshire and Vermont

Covered bridge - one of many we saw

 
 But the experience also got us thinking about our “camping” identity, why we RV, what kind of RV we might want in the future, where we want to go with the RV, and what kind of experience we are looking for in having an RV in the first place. We like being with other people, but we don’t like being part of a “herd”. We want to “do our own thing” but also have people to share a campfire, dinner, drink, or game with at night. We want to be physically active – more interested in parks and nature than museums, shopping, or typical “tourist” activities. (On this long trip we have tried to balance our experiences, but I have to admit that we have done a lot less of the outdoor relaxing, hiking, and appreciating nature than we had hoped.) There were a lot of BIG rigs on our trip – we clearly are moving in the other direction and thinking more and more about downsizing. How we do that becomes the problem. More on that subject later, but this trip helped us focus more on what we like and what we don’t like about RVing.

GETTYBURG: A moving, gut wrenching experience. All that death. Great hike with a ranger who gave us a 2 hour talk as we walked - about the location of the armies,  how the battle progressed, who the cast of characters was. As we walked or drove the same hills and valleys once traversed by those soldiers, we couldn’t help but be saddened by what we saw and felt. The country was so divided over the issue of slavery, we had to fight to keep the Union whole. And I wondered – are we headed there again? We are a country divided once again. Can we weather this storm without the violence? I hope and pray we never have to experience what we did here – thousands dead or injured. All told an estimated 620,000 (roughly 2% of the population) died in the war between the states. Gettysburg was the costliest battle of all. As we stood near where Lincoln delivered his famous address, looking out over the newly dedicated national cemetery, I was nearly brought to tears. Indeed,  it is for us the living to dedicate ourselves to the cause for which so many gave their lives.

On our way to Gettysburg, stopped at West Point on the Hudson

Location of Pickett's charge in Gettysburg

Along the lines at Gettysburg

WASHINGTON D.C.: With only three days, we limited ourselves to a couple of museums we had never seen and a few monuments. We spent the first day in the magnificent African American Museum and by the end, were both exhausted and exhilarated by the experience. They’ve done a masterful job  of capturing the history of the black experience in the “new world” from the 16th century to the present: from great African civilizations to enslavement, from enslavement to freedom,  from Jim Crow to Civil Rights protests – all vividly portrayed.

 Meanwhile, on the upper floors we saw the myriad accomplishments of African Americans throughout the years, despite all the impediments and road blocks along the way. We came away impressed and depressed, angry and, yet, hopeful, that the tide is changing.

The other museum we wanted to see, especially since they are closing their doors at the end of the year, was the NEWSEUM, dedicated to the first amendment freedoms of speech, press, religion, assembly, and petition (with an emphasis on the press).

Newseum - 1st Amendment emblazoned on wall

Here there was a moving tribute to the people who reported on the 9/11 disaster and another highlighting the Pulitzer Prize winners in photojournalism since the 1940s. There was a large section of the Berlin Wall, signifying another victory for freedom, and many displays highlighting the history and power of media, from early printing through radio and television to the internet. I’m sorry they are closing because their message is so very important and I am hoping that they will be able to find a less costly, more modest venue for their cause.

View of 6th floor of Newseum

Our last day in DC was spent walking – all around Arlington Cemetery (Kennedy grave and the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, among others), across the Memorial Bridge to the Lincoln Memorial and on to the Vietnam Wall Memorial, the Women’s War Memorial, the Korean War Memorial, the MLK Memorial, and the WWII Memorial. These were all sobering reminders of the cost of freedom, making one pause and reflect on who we are, what values we stand for, and how important it is to never lose sight of the sacrifices others have made on our behalf. And to wonder, will we ever learn?

Arlington Cemetery where 400,000 soldiers & family are buried

Changing of the guard at Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

MLK Memorial

World War II Memorial

Vietnam Wall. Remembering my high school friend, Bill Perkins

All these experiences, emotions, and thoughts are the reason it has been so hard for me to BREAK THE SILENCE. It has been a very full two months. Now, as we prepare to leave Richmond and begin our westward journey back home (not to end until next April), there will be fewer posts about what we have seen (although we still have a few interesting excursions ahead of us) and more about what this trip has meant to us, why we undertook it in the first place, what we have learned, and whether or not we will ever undertake any future trips of this magnitude.